Who was the first that apply hot enamel techniques and where did it happen? 

There is no precise answer to this question. The most ancient enamelled pieces referred to 15 century BC, were found in Crete (Ancient Greece). Also, King’s Tutankhamen tomb (Ancient Egypt) contained a lot of jewelry pieces made from gold inlaid with gemstones, mostly turquoise, carnelian and lapis lazuli. In addition to gemstones, artisans used glass powder to fill cavities made in metal. 

Cloisonné techniques, when artisans affix metal wire or other kinds of flat partitions to a metal plate and then fill them with glass enamel, became very popular in the Byzantine Empire (10th century and later), especially in icon decoration.

In Iran (Persia), both men and women wore quite heavy bracelets made from gold or silver in the cloisonné technique. Round in shape, bracelets were symmetrically finished with animal heads, made from metal and enamelled. 

Although, when we talk about cloisonné China is the first place that comes up into most people’s minds, this technique reached China from Byzantium or the Islamic world later, in the 13–14th centuries. 

What is hot enamelling about?

Technically, hot enamelling is fusing powdered glass into a metal. Here, it’s very important to keep in mind that the melting point of a metal should be, apparently, higher than the glass powder’s, so glass melts first and creates a bond with the metal’s surface. The most common metals used for this technique include sterling silver, copper, and brass. Gold also works very well but is much more expensive than its alternatives.

First, we have to prepare metal by cleaning, sanding, and pickling the metal. It’s a very important step and depending on the metal and its conditions can take longer than expected. For very old artifacts, I pickle them first in strong acids, then wash the acid residue in clear water and place them in the kiln as is to provoke oxidation. Then, I remove the “ashes” with a sanding machine, dip them for a few seconds into acids again and start creating.

If I want to incorporate some metal elements there, like for Dawnbreaker (1980, Canada) necklace, I use transparent clear enamel, which affixes the metal wire on the copper plate. For heavier pieces, such as The Stolen Sun, I use hard soldering to ensure the metal is securely set. And everything goes into the kiln again.

Then, I apply coloured glass powder and fire it in a kiln again. And again. And again. All these repeat until the desired result is there. After the piece seems to be ready, I polish the bare metal zones of a plate with a sanding rotary tool.

Then the last creative stage comes – incorporating gemstones, metal beads and other jewelry findings that would emphasize the beauty of the piece and the idea behind it.

This is a long process and each piece takes 2-4 hours to finish. Don’t worry, I’m not pricing based on a Canadian per-hour rate for my work here.

Can hot-enamelling be faked?

Jewelry-grade enamel that I’m using is quite expensive but definitely worth it. When you look at my works with the sun, they look like radiating light and have depth. There is an industrial kind of enamel, which is cheaper but gives a flat look. For example, pots or metal cups are covered with industrial enamel in factories. Also, it is used for pins, some findings and many other commercial ways.

Another kind of enamel refers to cold techniques and technically is based on synthetic resins. Some artists sell it as “enamelled’, which is not true. It’s rather painted or coated than enamelled.

What are the most expensive hot enamelled pieces?

Between 1885 and 1917 jewelry House of Fabergé (St. Petersburg, Russia) manufactured 69 (only 57 survived) decorative very fine eggs. The most famous is his 52 “Imperial” eggs, 46 of which survive, made for the Russian Tsars Alexander III and Nicholas II as Easter gifts for their wives and mothers. Obviously, the jewelry house was forcefully closed right after the revolution.

Possibly, the most expensive Fabergé egg in the world is the Third Imperial Easter Egg, valued at approximately $33 million dollars.

My work is much cheaper 🙂